KC Star & SDR

Efflorescence

Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:02:44 -0500

Question:

I have a problem with some unsightly brickwork on the front of my house. It is on a front porch area with soil behind the brick. In the past, someone applied a white sealer to the mortar. In a year’s time, the white sealer seems to come out of the mortar and dissolve on the bricks. It appears as though some fungus might loosen the painted mortar. Could this be moisture forcing its way through the mortar? The mortar seems to be deteriorating.

Answer:

I am pretty sure the condition you are experiencing is called “efflorescence.” Efflorescence appears as white stains on masonry and is the result of water getting in and pulling out the water-soluble salts, leaving a white powdery deposit on the surface of the masonry as the water evaporates.

Typically, the best removal method would be with a dry brush. Rinsing with water or hand washing with a mild detergent and a stiff-bristle brush may also be effective. Some people just let the natural weathering process do the work.

Cleaning the efflorescence does not cure the problem. After cleaning, you may experience the efflorescence again. Once the area is cleaned, it should be sealed, to prevent new moisture from entering the masonry. Since moisture must be present for efflorescence to appear, any other steps you can take to keep water away from the wall will be helpful (gutter cleaning, proper drainage, etc.)

I would recommend that you contact a mason to confirm the presence of efflorescence and to look at the deteriorating mortar to see if repair is in order.

Hanging grass cloth

Thu, 3 Dec 2009 18:30:24 -0600

Question:

Could you please provide instructions as to the correct way to hang grass cloth (real, not vinyl)? I have understood there is a special method. The store where I am purchasing the wall covering was not aware of any special method.

Answer:

All I knew about hanging grass cloth was that it could be "tricky," so I searched out a little advice. I talked to two pros with the needed expertise.
John Wylie of Wylie's Paperhanging suggests that when hanging grass cloth you make sure the walls are properly prepared and sized. He recommends using a premixed clear vinyl adhesive. Trim 1 inch off each side of the grass cloth. And reverse every other strip. Reversing every other strip is one way to install grass cloth that will accentuate the pattern effect.
Dan McVay with McVay Wallcoverings reiterated that adhesive could stain the front of grass cloth (even from the paste on your fingertips) - so clear adhesive is very important. He also mentioned that due to the paneling effect of grass cloth (you can see the seams), you should center at least one or two areas in the room – centering means that you would start installing the paper in the middle of the wall and work your way to the corners. Centering will assure that seams do not distract from focal points, you should plan seams so they will not interrupt features like wall sconces, mirrors, pictures, etc.

Window Condensation

Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:28:37 -0500

Question:

Our house is 6 years old. We live in Lawson, Mo. Our inside temperature is 70, 71 degrees, day and night. Usually when the temperature outside is in the low 20s or teens, we have a lot of condensation on the inside of our Weather Shield windows. Our humidity inside is 36 to 40 percent. It seems to us the only thing that could be wrong is the windows are leaking air. Our windows were very expensive. We also added storm windows on the north side, and that did not help. We are out of options. Would you please help? Our windows are triple pane, with argon gas.

Answer:

When you see condensation forming on the inside of your windows, it is an indication that there is too much water vapor in the air of your home (measured in relative humidity) or that there is insufficient air circulation next to the windows on which the condensation is occurring. The good news is that there may be nothing wrong with your windows. I do have a couple of suggestions for your situation.

One idea would be to reduce indoor relative humidity by running your kitchen or bath exhaust fans until the condensation disappears. The fans will be more effective if you open a window somewhere else in the house to provide the replacement air, while running the fans. Make sure that the fans you use do exhaust to the outside (not just to the attic or recirculate within the house). Also, make sure blinds or draperies are open and not trapping moisture between the window treatment and the window.

Another thought is that you are experiencing “seal failure” with your windows. In this situation, the condensation would typically be in-between the panes of glass. An insulated glass window unit has 2 or move sheets of glass separated by a spacer and sealant system creating a “sealed” air space. If the seal is broken anywhere along the edge, moisture may appear. The actual point of “failure” is usually not visible because the seal is hidden inside the sash or frame. If you think you have seal failure, I would recommend that you contact your builder or window representative to verify that your windows are failing and would be covered under a warranty.

Good Luck.

Structural permits

Tue, 24 Mar 2009 14:17:32 -0500

Question:

My son owns a newer townhouse with "flex-space" in the basement. Currently, that garage space houses an open laundry area in the front end. We are interested in building a fourth wall, and then adding a standard interior door into an existing wall (hallway) which is probably load-bearing. Fortunately, the south wall has a very large window so I think this space has potential to be a nice laundryroom/workout room.

My brother (retired engineer) is quite handy and has experience with providing adequate support above the new door and doing the drywall, but we are wondering what kind of permits we would need and whom to contact in KC, MO. I imagine the rewiring will require an electrician. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Sincerely,

Sue Slater

P.S. Are you (your company) available for an estimate for the entire project if we decide to invest more and relocate the washer and dryer from the existing east wall to the new proposed north wall?

Answer:

The best advice I can offer is to contact the Development Services Department at the City of Kansas City, MO (816-531-1500). I know that a permit will be required, but is it technically structural or non-structural? There are different processes for each type of permit.

I spoke with a Development Services representative who informed me that if there is sheetrock involved, your project automatically needs a permit. An interior remodel that is less than 25% structural may obtain a permit at the 5th floor of City Hall. However, if the structural work is more that 25%, then a plan must be submitted to the Plans Review Division at 320 East 11th Street. Therefore, if the wall where you plan to put the door is in fact load bearing, then a plan/drawing of this work would be required to obtain a permit. If the wall is not load bearing, then this project would fall under the “non-structural renovation requiring permit” guidelines and a permit may be obtained over the counter at City Hall.

The City Planning and Development website states that regarding an electrical permit for a single family dwelling…”if you are the owner of a single family dwelling, then you are authorized to obtain permits for any work on the premises, provided that you occupy the dwelling and perform all the work yourself. Any other person requesting permits to perform electrical, plumbing or heating and ventilation work must be a properly licensed contractor.”

My company certainly does provide estimates if you should decide to increase the scope of work for this project. There is also a great resource through the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI), this association produces a Remodeling Guide that gives tips for hiring a contractor as well as lists the members by category (if you just need an electrician or a handyman, etc.). Visit remodelingkc.com for more information.

Converting gas fireplace to electric

Sun, 4 Jan 2009 10:21:35 -0600

Question: Our home has a see-through ventless natural gas fireplace between two rooms. It puts out sufficient heat but is costly to use. My extra sensitive nose is bothered by an odor that it seems to emit. Structurally, it is not possible to convert it to a vented model.

Is it possible to convert the fireplace to an electric model? Where would one find realistic looking electric logs for a see-through fireplace?
CG, Kearney, Mo

Answer: You can certainly convert the fireplace to an electric model. Depending on the type of gas fireplace you have now, you will have a couple of options for the replacement. There are electric fireplace inserts and there are electric fireplace logs available. Dimplex offers an electric fireplace insert that plugs into a standard household outlet. With this unit, you can operate the fire with or without heat and a realistic flame effect is produced.

For a see through fireplace, not all inserts will work, so the electric log sets may be your best option. Heat and Glo does offer a see-through electric fireplace unit called the Simplifyre. This unit also plugs into a standard outlet, allows viewing on both sides, comes with a standard on/off control and fixed glass doors for both sides (this fireplace unit may or may not come in a size compatible with your existing opening).

The Fireplace and Barbeque Center in Overland Park as well as Midwest Fireplace in Olathe carry electric fireplace options for you to view. Before visiting one of the showrooms, make sure to measure the opening of the fireplace you have now as the new units will come in standard sizes. Good Luck