KC Star & SDR

Hot water recirculation

Sun, 26 Dec 2010 10:01:52 -0600

Question:

I'm a new home owner of a two story condo. It takes a minute or two before hot water reaches most faucets. Would it be more economical to get a hot water recirculation system, thus using additional energy, or to let the water run down the drain, thus using a precious natural resource? What about the environmental impact of each? Cost?

Answer:

My opinion would be to get a hot water recirculation system. Hot water recirculation systems deliver hot water to fixtures quickly without waiting for water to get hot. These systems “pump” to rapidly move water from a water heater to fixtures. These systems can conserve water and save energy; instead of letting the cold water run down the drain, it is recirculated by a system that is quiet, maintenance free and keeps water at a comfortable temperature – What more could you ask for?

I checked with my local pluming expert, Mike Dudgeon, at Ferguson Enterprises in Lenexa and he shared information about a Grundfos Comfort System that is a water recirculation system used specifically for a retro fit situation like yours (meaning that this system can be added to your existing plumbing). The system is easy to install, uses less energy than a 25 wall light bulb and could save thousands of liters of water per year. The Grundfos Comfort System costs about $400.00. This is an uninstalled price for the unit, which should take 1-2 hours to install (a licensed plumber is always your best bet for installation). More information on this system can be found at www.savewaternow.com or www.grundfos.com.

Painting Tile

Fri, 19 Nov 2010 11:23:44 -0600

Question:

I have white 10-inch square tile around my fireplace and on the hearth as well as white 4-inch ceramic tile around a bathtub. I would like to paint the tile to give it a marble effect. I am thinking I would probably need to use a couple of different colors to achieve the effect. I would want something that would adhere well and last. Is this even a good idea and if so, what type of paint would you recommend?

Answer:

Painting tile can be a good idea as long as the tile does not get wet repeatedly. The areas you describe around a fireplace and a tub (that does not also act as a shower) should be suitable locations.

Paint will not stick to a slick, shiny tile surface, so careful preparation is important. Clean the tile vigorously using a bath cleaner with a mild abrasive. Make sure all residue is removed. Allow the tile to completely dry.

Then use an oil-based semi-gloss or high-gloss paint. You may want to get some pictures or pieces of marble to help you emulate the veining and coloring of the marble look you want to achieve. Once the paint has dried for two to three days, coat it with two coats of clear, water-based urethane to protect the paint. Good luck with your project!

Crack in concrete slab

Sun, 10 Oct 2010 10:11:10 -0500

Question:

My husband and I live in an older home that has a concrete slab floor behind the garage for a family room and half-bath. That entire area was carpeted when we bought the house, and we decided we wanted ceramic tile there instead. Not having laid tile before, we started small with the half-bath, and it was a success and looks great.

We have enough tiles to do the remaining family room, and we were ready to tackle that project next, until we pulled up the carpet. There is a crack in the concrete slab that runs the entire width of the room. Obviously, the ground has settled and shifted. Laying tile over it just means the tile will crack if there is any more movement. Is there a solution that will allow us to use the tiles we already have, or will we have to re-carpet?

Answer:

If the movement/crack in the floor is excessive or structural (meaning that there is a difference in height on each side of the crack), you may want to have the situation looked at by an engineer or go ahead and re-carpet the room. However, if the crack is a normal stress crack in the concrete, but the overall floor is in stable condition, then I would suggest using an anti-fracture membrane over the crack prior to tile installation.

An anti-fracture membrane is designed so that movement in the concrete is not directly transferred to the tile. The membrane is bonded to the concrete and the tile bonded to the membrane, but the membrane stretches where it’s needed to prevent or reduce the transference of the crack. The membrane can be trowel-applied or sheet-applied.

For more information on anti-fracture membranes and installation, check the Tile Council of North America website, www.tileusa.com.

Debby Allmon is a certified remodeler and vice president of Schloegel Design Remodel in Kansas City. Send questions to home@ kcstar.com or Handyman, House + Home, FYI, The Kansas City Star, 1729 Grand Blvd., Kansas City, Mo. 64108.

Glue mirror on glass

Wed, 8 Sep 2010 19:25:33 -0500

Question:

I have French doors in my house with 15 (3 across & 5 down) panes of glass measuring 6"x12" on each door. I want to adhere mirrors over each of the panes of glass for privacy so I don't have to use curtains. Someone told me I can't glue mirror on top of glass. Is this true?

Answer:

I would say that you certainly can glue mirror on top of glass. Be sure to use an epoxy glue to provide a good bonding agent. Some adhesives will not hold over a long period of time on glass or a mirror, but epoxy should. Something you may want to consider is how this will look on the back side of the door – you may need to apply mirror to both sides of the glass so that you do not see the back of the glued mirror on the other side of the door. Another idea I have used for this type of application is to have the glass etched to give a “frosted” appearance”, but still provide privacy.

Efflorescence

Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:02:44 -0500

Question:

I have a problem with some unsightly brickwork on the front of my house. It is on a front porch area with soil behind the brick. In the past, someone applied a white sealer to the mortar. In a year’s time, the white sealer seems to come out of the mortar and dissolve on the bricks. It appears as though some fungus might loosen the painted mortar. Could this be moisture forcing its way through the mortar? The mortar seems to be deteriorating.

Answer:

I am pretty sure the condition you are experiencing is called “efflorescence.” Efflorescence appears as white stains on masonry and is the result of water getting in and pulling out the water-soluble salts, leaving a white powdery deposit on the surface of the masonry as the water evaporates.

Typically, the best removal method would be with a dry brush. Rinsing with water or hand washing with a mild detergent and a stiff-bristle brush may also be effective. Some people just let the natural weathering process do the work.

Cleaning the efflorescence does not cure the problem. After cleaning, you may experience the efflorescence again. Once the area is cleaned, it should be sealed, to prevent new moisture from entering the masonry. Since moisture must be present for efflorescence to appear, any other steps you can take to keep water away from the wall will be helpful (gutter cleaning, proper drainage, etc.)

I would recommend that you contact a mason to confirm the presence of efflorescence and to look at the deteriorating mortar to see if repair is in order.